Thursday, February 21, 2013

Iceland Day 7: Back to Reykjavik


Now we are the only ones staying in the fabulous Hotel Reykjahlíð so we took over the communal area and organized our stuff last night, ready for our bus departure at 9am.

The kids did some nekkid running up and down the stairs... just cuz they could... 
Then we said goodbye to lovely Ragga and Birke and got a lift to the bus stop from Eyrun (shown in photo below).
We had a very pleasant bus ride to Akureyri and were met by Ana from Nonni Travel at 10:45am so they could hang onto our bags while we walked around town until our flight at 1:20pm.
Looking across the fjord to Akureyri and the glorious mountains behind
Tryfan and his troll friend
 After we landed back in Reykjavik, we checked back into the Guesthouse Sunna that we stayed in at the beginning of our trip, then after a little rest we got on yet another bus to go to the famous Blue Lagoon
Gangnam style on the entrance to the Blue Lagoon
The Blue Lagoon is very different from the Myvatn Nature Baths even though they are both outdoor geothermal hot springs which have been commercialized. This place is really big and very well organized - every person gets an electronic bracelet that is used to access a locker and also acts as a tab so one can order drinks from the lagoon bar! We didn't order any drinks - we just explored the gigantic lagoon and played in the warm water.

 
After enough of that, we had a small dinner in the cafe and then caught the bus back to our guesthouse. It's our last night here in Iceland and our taxi is coming at 6:15am. We are all sad that this holiday has come to an end, but its been full and fabulous!

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Iceland Day 6: Krafla crater area

Rhiannon was helping Tryfs sound out words in one of her books
Today we had a quiet start and then the main activity was a guided ski tour of the Krafla crater area. It was awesome.
This is a photo from 1977 of the lava fissure that we skied up to and then walked around. 

Eyrun (who owns the shop that we rented skis from, and whose husband was the one to plow the tracks for us yesterday) was our guide. She picked us up in her truck and we drove out to Krafla, then carried our skis and poles up to the top of the hill before setting out on our little expedition.







At the solar and wind powered seismometer station

Setting off from the seismometer station to the warm volcanic area (brown hill)
Looking back at Rhodri and Tryfan with the steam from Krafla geothermal plant in the background
We threw snowballs into the boiling lake below
We took our skis off and carefully followed Eyrun around admiring the fresh volcanic rocks and the steam rising from the still warm ground.
Here is Tryfan holding a piece of lava rock which was surprisingly light
We stopped for a hot chocolate break on some pleasantly warm rocks
Sulphur crystals on top of some pleasantly warm rocks
Walking back to where we had left our skis
Gorgeous light on the mountains northwest of Krafla
Family photo
It was such a fabulous trip, even though it was just a couple of hours. The kids did great and it helped that most of the terrain was flat! I think it also really helped to have a non-family member who was encouraging and smiley while she was guiding us.

We ended the day by spending an hour in the warm waters of the Myvatn Nature Baths and then got a lift back to the hotel for our last night.

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Iceland Day 5: Lake Myvatn

We had a really full day today!
First we went on a x-c ski tour and then we went horseback riding and then out to dinner to the Cowshed.
The lady who ran the place we rented the skis from got her husband to plow some ski tracks for us early in the morning using his snowmobile, and then we went on a ski tour from about 10am - 1:30pm. How lucky are we to have our own personal tracks plowed! Needless to say there was nobody else skiing around, but we heard later that the 2 lovely people working at the hotel went for a ski tour in the afternoon on these tracks.
Setting out for our ski tour
At the junction of the ski trail
Halfway point - there was some building remains up on an island and we had a short snack and hot chocolate break here.
Rhiannon at the end of the tour
Tryfan at the end of the ski tour
It was a gorgeous day, as you can see from the photos! The time went by too quickly and the horse people were coming sometime between 1:30-2, so we had to get a move on to be back in time.
We never did find out the names of the people who owned the horses and took us riding, but they were lovely.
Meeting the horses for the first time
 We were each assigned a horse and helped to get on, then no sooner were we all onboard than some snow slid from a rooftop nearby and that spooked all the horses! Rhodri's horse got the most spooked and headed  quickly for the fence (a la Trigger from Montana in 1995...). Rhods made a jump for it and landed in the snow and the poo with a bruised knee and hip. Not so good, but he got back on a different horse and we set off.
Rhodri on the "new" horse looking less than stoked
We weren't really sure what was going to happen, but in the end the wife led T & R on their horses while Rhodri and I took off across the frozen lake with the husband. Here is the view from the lake looking back at T & R being led on their horses by the Mrs.
Icelandic horses have this extra gait besides walking, trotting and cantering: the tölt (and some Icelandic horses can also do the flying pace as well). So when Rhodri and I set off with the Mister, we were doing the tölt  the whole time and it was wonderful. It is so smooth you are supposed to be able to hold a full pint of beer (and drink it) while riding.
The view of Rhodri and Mister as we are heading out to the middle of Lake Myvatn
My horse, Lucifer, was really good but he didn't like standing still. We got along just fine and I took this photo of his lovely mane while we were tolting.

R & T walking around with the Mrs. They had a wonderful time together.
Rhiannon was especially happy because she had been dropping several hints in the days previous that she really wanted to ride an Icelandic horse. 
Sunset from our hotel
So then we got back to the hotel and were given a lift to the Cowshed at a nearby farm and guesthouse. It was really great food and a very special place.

One of the cows is famous (locally) because she has gigantic udders and has to even wear a bra to support them!
R & T at one of the tables in the Cowshed restaurant. There were a lot of glass windows into the barn so you could watch the cows eating and being milked. 
We saw the Lewis family again last night briefly and again they were so unfriendly! Since we are all upstairs, there is a common hangout area with couches and a balcony and we were hoping that they would come hang out with us, but they went straight into their room and locked the door :-(

And even late last night after we had all tucked our kids into bed and were ready for some adult chillout time, they wouldn't play. So that was a bit uncomfortable but we reckon they must have more problems than we do. To be fair, Mr Lewis was at least shyly able to be engaged, but Mrs Lewis was nothing but hostile. Oh well. They left this morning so good luck to them.

Monday, February 18, 2013

Iceland Day 4: Akureyri to Reykjahlíð

Today we had another bus tour booked, this time to and around Lake Myvatn from Akureyri.
Route from Akureyri (A) to Reykjahlíð (C) via Godafoss (B
The front desk guy helped us carry our bags 200 meters to the bus stop, and within a few minutes the bus was along to take us on a scenic tour for the day, then drop us at the Hotel Reykjahlíð (one of the images on the homepage of this site is actually the room we are in!).
Getting a talking-to in the lobby of Hotel Akureyri before we got on the bus
It was gorgeous light across the sky and reflected in the fjord and snow covered mountains. Photos of this part of our trip don't do justice to the breadth and depth of the landscape.
Looking south as we crossed the Eyjafjordur fjord on our way out of Akureyri
First stop was a dairy farm on the side of the mountain. They served fresh milk to visitors and we saw their amazingly high-tech operation. This scraper on the floor was constantly moving slowing back and forth from one end to the other pushing the poo into troughs so the floor was clear. There was a scratching post in the middle so that cows could go get their itches scratched whenever they wanted. Each cow wore a necklace that monitored how often and how much milk they produced, with the only constraint that they couldn't enter the milking robot area more than once within a 6 hour period. But otherwise they were free to sleep, eat, get milked, get scratched and also go outside to play when the shed doors were open (not in the winter).
Overview of the dairy operation
This is the milking machine. Each of the suction things had a red laser which searched for a nipple and latched on!
Then we went to see the Goðafoss waterfall which was gorgeous in this pink light. Actually the waterfall itself was in the shadow, but the landscape around was pink.
Don't go too close to the edge, because there is no rail and the dropoff is a few hundred feet!
Here are the troops with the bus in the background

Snow angel by the waterfall
Tryfan's upside down snow angel
When we got to Lake Myvatn, we stopped to walk around the steam craters. These are formed from water being superheated and the exploding through the ground to create a crater of sediment around. They are like mini volcanoes (but without lava) and make the landscape look lunar.
Rhiannon climbed up a steam crater
A lone woman pushing her pram down the main road

We went to visit this place called Dimmuborgir, which is an area of preserved and collapsed lava tubes. Our guide took us on a walk through the area and told us stories about the 13 Icelandic Santa Clauses that come out in December, and about the trolls you can see in the rock formations. 
Following our tour guide called Triestte (or something)
One of the preserved lava tubes
Then we went to the Hverarond geothermal area, which was an area of hot pots, fumaroles, boiling mud pools and other interesting features.
Approaching the Hverarond area with steam coming from the snow
Rhodri with a steam mound
Our final stop on the tour was the Myvatn Nature Baths. I have been looking forward to this for so long! It was one of the reasons that I wanted to visit this part of Iceland. It was gorgeous light and very soft, warm, wonderful water. I didn't take photos while we were out swimming, but I did take this photos after we were done and I was back into dry clothes.

After the hot spring visit, we checked into our hotel.
And guess who the other guests were? The other Lewis family!!!! So it was just us two Lewis families plus a pair of Australian ladies. This is not a big hotel - only 9 rooms. Fortunately, Lene our travel agent sent me a text message giving us a heads up about the other Lewises so that we didn't have a shock when we checked in...